Healthy and mixed, facing the sea and inspired by distant shores: the palette of Venetian flavors draws on its cultural and regional richness. The Orient brought him spices, Jewish immigration of delicious pastries, and the lagoon and its many vegetable gardens did the rest. Gourmet notebook in the delicious Serenissima.
Take coffee standing at the counter
Before their working day, the Venetians have the habit of having a coffee "in piedi" in the bar of their district. They take it alone or accompanied by a "cornetto" (the equivalent of the French croissant filled with jam or cream).
Espresso, macchiato, cappuccino, macchiatone, coffee is an art of nuance. Head to the Café del Doge in San Polo or Torrefazione Cannaregio for a good scented coffee.
Buy local at Rialto
The Rialto market is open daily from eight o'clock to noon, except Sunday and Monday. It consists of a large covered hall: the pescheria and a fruit and vegetable area. At the market, focus on the small fish, shellfish and crustaceans of the lagoon: sea cicadas, spider crabs, small shrimps, clams and mussels.
At the primeurs, be sure to ask for " nostrani », Fruits and vegetables from Sant'Erasmo Island. Enjoy especially the flowers of zucchini and castraure, these little artichokes sold already prepared. There is nothing to do but skip them in the pan! A real treat !
After refueling at the market, the Venetians always go to the small wine and cheese shops nearby.
The Casa del Parmigiano, recognizable by its queue, has been held for three generations by the family of Albino Aliani. Inside, you will find the best parmigiano reggiano and Parma ham from the city.
At the Mascari drogheria, enjoy the many spices in the heart of the Venetian tradition: salt capers from the Aeolian islands, loose pink pepper and saffron. For alcohols, focus on Moscato grappa grapes (the best!) And Veneto wines.
Enjoy some cicchetti with a glass of white wine
The Ciccheti, Venetian bites comparable to tapas, are eaten at noon when they have just been prepared. At Al Merca, a osteria next to Casa del Parmigiano, Venetians eat tuna meatballs, meat or eggplant standing in the street with a glass of white wine.
Enjoy cichetti fresh fish on toast or polenta: sardines in son (marinade of vinegar, candied onions and raisins), sliced tuna, marinated salmon, octopus. For that, go to Al Bancogiro, a charming osteria whose terrace overlooks the Grand Canal.
The osteria Ruga di Jaffa also offers many fish and vegetable cichetti. This is where the gondoliers come to relax and eat at noon far from the flow of tourists.
Order some weblogini
If you are in a hurry, go for tramezzini, Italian sandwiches with extremely thin sliced bread. Favor those with boiled eggs and rocket. A delight! At Cantina Do Mori, an institution dating back to 1462, you will find excellent tramezzini at the counter.
Opt for street food in the Venetian style
If you want to eat while continuing your walk, order a "fritto misto" of fresh fish to take in a paper bag at Acqua e Mais. This address, very popular with Venetians, is considered the best street food in Venice.
Try Venetian pastries
Located close to the RialtoRizzardini, whose opening dates from 1742, is the oldest pastry shop in the city. There are all the dolci Venetian: ricotta pie, pane del doge (big shortbread with pistachio or chocolate decorated with almonds and sugar syrup), Amaretti (soft cupcakes with sugar and almonds), Buranelli (S-shaped egg biscuits), zalleti (corn cookies), pera (cake with apple jam) and the traditional Tiramisu. You can take your sweetness at the counter by accompanying a coffee and admire the old woodwork of the shop.
In the San Marco areaThe Rosa Salva pastry shop serves excellent coffee and also offers all traditional Venetian cakes.
Fond of fun with a homemade ice cream
After hours exploring the streets of Venice in the heat of summer, refresh yourself with ice cream or sorbet!
In the Dorsoduro area, Il Doge attracts crowds with traditional flavors such as Piedmont hazelnut, Bronte pistachio, and chocolate gianduja. The crema del doge, local specialty with candied oranges, is excellent!
If you want to enjoy your ice cream while strolling at sunset quays of ZattereThere are two options available at Nico and Lo Squero (named after the adjacent Gondola Repair Shop). In the latter, opt for the success of the house: the apricot sorbet.
Make a "shadow giro"
From 5 pm, the Venetians meet to go around the neighborhood bars. They have a tradition of drinking glasses of wine in the shade of the campanile (bell tower) in different bars of the city at the end of the day. A habit they are not ready to give up!
Start your giro to the Osteria del Riccio Peoco located on the very charming Campo SS. Aspostoli. Also enjoy the unusual terrace of Al Timon, where you can sit on a boat moored for a glass of wine.
Take a spritz at the water's edge
Inheritance of the Habsburgs, the Spritz is composed of white wine, soda water, Campari or Aperol. The Austrians created this cocktail when they occupied the region in 19e century. According to the legend, it is soldiers who, poorly supporting the litera tion of local white wines, have decided to lengthen it with sparkling water ("spritzen" meaning "watering" in Austrian).
Drink your cocktail on the terrace of Chioschetto in front of the island of Giudecca. The view and the light are very pleasant. AT Cannaregio, the peaceful terrace of We Crociferi, a former convent converted into a youth hostel, is a great place to drink a spritz and meet Italian students.
Dine in a trattoria
The trattoria, a family-style restaurant, is to Italy what the bistro is to France. Ideal to enjoy a home cooking in a friendly atmosphere and often at low prices. Opened in 1954 near the Rialto, La Madonna is a local institution especially for its seafood. granceola, the spider crab, served in its shell on a bed of salad. In the morning if you spend around 11 am, you will regularly see the servers peeling the spider: a nice show!
Trattoria Storica, located near the Jesuit Church in the district of CannaregioIt is also very popular with locals for its sea antipasti. Also in Cannaregio, not far from the canal, Trattoria Pontini serves authentic Venetian cuisine at good value.
Enjoy a prosecco or passito with a biscuit
Produced in the region of Treviso, the prosecco, sparkling white wine of the region, is chosen spumante (slightly sparkling) or frizzante (richer in bubble). On the Fondamenta della Misericordia, choose the Vino-Vero wine bar to drink the prosecco sitting on rugs at the edge of the water.
Alternative to prosecco, the passito is a slightly sweet white wine that Venetians drink for dessert. They dip a dry cake they call the "bruto e buono" (ugly and good).
Take a small grappa as a digestive
Impossible to stay in Venice without drinking a grappa, eau-de-vie produced in northern Italy. In Veneto, the best grappa is obtained from prosecco or Valpolicella. Venetians take it digestive. They sometimes put a drop in their coffee to give themselves a boost. A nice idea before returning to walk the alleys of the Serene!
The pillars of Venetian gastronomy
Venetian cuisine combines spicy and oriental flavors, market produce, fresh fish and lagoon crustaceans. Not to mention the fans of Italian cuisine: pasta, risotto and polenta.
– Fiori di zucca: zucchini flower fritters. The donut dough, very light, is similar to the Japanese tempura.
– Sardinian in Saor: sardines cooked in a marinade made from white wine vinegar, onions, pine nuts and raisins.
– Saw: small gray shrimps of the lagoon usually served on a bed of polenta.
– Spaghetti with cuttlefish ink: typical dish of Veneto prepared with cuttlefish or squid ink. While some are suspicious because of the black color, others love this sea taste with a tomato sauce.
– Spaghetti alle vongole: spaghetti cooked with olive oil, garlic, chilli, white wine and parsley. The whole secret lies in the cooking time of the clams and the mantecatura, this subtle mixture between the juice of clams and that of pasta.
– Granceola: the spider crab is a little known to the general public, but very popular with connoisseurs who appreciate its fine and delicate flesh.
– Squille: the sea cicada is an Adriatic crustacean. It is in autumn that its flesh is the firmest and is the most full of coral.
– Polenta : flour cake grilled, yellow, and more rarely white. It is the accompaniment king of many Venetian dishes. She is served lasted (rigid) or morbida (Creamy).
Alcohol abuse is dangerous for your health, consume with moderation.
Find all the tips, addresses and practical information in the Routard Venice bookstore
Consult our guides online Venice and Italy
Italian National Tourist Office
How to get there ?
– By plane: Venice is connected to Paris-CDG and other French airports by Air France, Alitalia, Easy Jet in direct flight. Find your plane ticket.
– By train: Thello connects Paris-Gare de Lyon to Venice by night train.
Where to drink coffee and buy good products?
– Café del Doge: close to the Rialto, in an alley, the Café del Doge sign, created in 1950, is a reference in Venice. Order a Doge 100% Arabica at the counter. Castello, 6034.
– Torrefazionne Cannaregio: created in 1930, this roaster specialized in Arabica coffee is located in the heart of Cannaregio. Sit down and order an espresso, macchiato or cappuccino. Fondamenta dei Ormesini, 2804.
– Casa del Parmigiano: owned since 1936 by the family of Albino Aliani, this family grocery store located next to the Rialto offers all the Italian specialties. The must-haves: Parmesan cheese and Parma ham. San Polo, 214-215
– Drogheria Mascari: created in 1948, the Drogheria Mascari is the oldest delicatessen in Venice. Buy spices, wine (more than 600 references) and balsamic vinegar. 381 S. Polo
Where to nibble?
– Al Merca: the smallest bar in Venice Order a spritz with some sandwiches or tramezzini after your market. Campo Bella Vienna, 213
– Ruga di Jaffa: address appreciated by the gondoliers who work in the district, one comes there to drink a glass of white wine at the counter and choose some cicchetti exposed in the window. Ruga Giuffa, 4864
– Acqua e Mais: Venetians' favorite place, seafood fries served in paper cones are excellent. Campiello dei Meloni, 1411-1412
Where to eat good ice cream and pastries?
– Rizzardini: cakes, cookies and excellent coffee at the counter in this charming little pastry. Sestiere San Polo 1415
– Rosa Salva: named after chef Rosa Salva, this bakery created in 1870 makes all traditional Venetian biscuits. Sestiere di S. Marco, 950
– Il Doge Gelateria: family-owned. The gelateria was awarded the prize for the best glacier in Venice. Calle Traghetto Vecchio, 2822
– Gelateria Nico: with the Zattere for terrace, this glacier offers a superb view of the Giudecca. Order the specialty: gianduiotto. Fondamenta Zattere al Ponte Longo, 922
– Gelateria Lo Squero: located near the Accademia, this glacier serves particularly creamy ice cream. Fondamenta Nani, 990
Where to have a drink?
– Al Timon: address very popular with young Venetians at cocktail hour. Excellent cicchetti. You can also stay and eat grilled meat. Fondamenta dei Ormesini, 2754
– Al Chioschetto : small kiosk overlooking the lagoon appreciated by locals at sunset time. To drink a beer or a spritz. Fondamenta Zattere Al Ponte Lungo, 1406 / A
– We Crociferi: Set in a former convent, this hostel has a bar with a charming terrace. Campo dei Gesuiti, 4878
– Vino Vero: a natural and biodynamic wine bar located on one of the most beautiful fundamentals of the Cannaregio district. Fondamenta Misericordia, 2497
Where to dine in a trattoria?
– La Madonna: this trattoria opened in 1954 offers typical Venetian cuisine. Calle della Madonna, 594
– Trattoria Storica: located near the Jesuit Church, this trattoria serves local cuisine at affordable prices. Cannaregio 4858
– Trattoria Pontini: along the canal of Cananregio, authentic Venetian cuisine at reasonable prices. Ponte delle Guglie, Cannaregio 2902.
Text: Laure Delmoly